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Kanchipuram Sarees, Kanjivaram Sarees,...something else!!

As on today the price of the gold traded in New Delhi Rs 27740 per 10 grams and Silver as Rs 56,200. Price is going northward gradually but surely. The price of gold is giving nightmares to traditional Kanchipuram silk saree weavers. They either have to reduce the use of gold and silver in making zari, the decorative lace that define sarees made here in the temple town of Tamil Nadu or discontinue the prefixing of the name Kanchipuram with these sarees. Tough choice indeed!

While interacting with one society, its been informed that silk sarees are churns out through 20,000 looms with 2-3 weavers working on each of them. A saree could take 8-15 days to produce, depending on its complexity and design and colour.

Zari, the decorative lace, as per the standard should be a mix of silver and gold in the ratio of 57% and 0.6% silver and gold respectively to get the identity of Kanchipuram. This identity of Kanchipuram Silk Sarees have been protected by the Geographical  Indication label since 2005. It certifies as well as confirms that these standards are adhered. Without these standards silk sarees woven in Kanchipuram can not be termed as Kanchipuram.!!

Last year this standard hit these silk weavers badly as the price of the gold and silver skyrocketed. To make 240 gm of zari, the cost has raised from Rs 6,000 in 2010 to Rs 15,000 in 2011-12, 2.5 times jump!!

However there is some breather by the state govt. As per the new standard laid by the govt of Tamil Nadu, the silver content of 40% and gold as 0.5% is permissible and are entitled to sell their sareee as original Kanchipuram Silk. Less use of these lustrous metals has been welcomed by these weavers. They don’t need to fear  of losing the exalted Kanchipuram identity.

  "The notification is expected anytime soon," says Sanjai Gandhi, president of Intellectual Property Rights Attorney Association, who has been driving Geographical Indication use by the temple town's weavers.

The reasoning behind Geographical Indications in general is that a certain quality can be associated with products made from specific geographies. In India, prominent products bagging this brand right include Darjeeling Tea, Kashmir Pashmina and Tirupati Laddoo.

The geographical identity has also come under criticism. The futility of Geographical Indication is being heard among Kanchipuram’s weavers. Societies eligible to use are at best lukewarm to the idea of Geographical Identity. The main reason behind this is the unawareness of geographical tag so much that while buying a saree they don’t look for the Geographical tag. This results in the  passage of many sarees from other towns and cities of Tamil Nadu. A variety of sarees are available in the open market, traded under the names of 'Kanjivaram Silk Sarees, Conjeevaram Silk, Kanchi Silk Sarees,' by giving the impression of original Kanchipuram Silk Sarees to the consumers." 

For us, Folksmarket.com, we have always strived to protect rich tradition and culture of our weavers and crafters. Geographical identity is one important element that can protect these traditional silk weavers from Kanchipuram.

The Beatle Nut cracker

It all started with a folklore that we at Folksmarket heard while a random visit to Rewa. The HH of Rewa Maharaja Gulab Singh was looking for something to present to the British Commissioners as a symbolic token of Rewa State. The grand-grandfather of Mr Yogest Kunder, thought of creating something that symbols the Rewa State Culture viz respect and friendliness. And he created a sword from nuts. HH Gulab Singh was amused. He asked the reason and concept for creating such product. And the creator said, “HH what can be a better souvenir than this sword, all made from nuts?” This sword according to him described the valour and friendliness simultaneously.

 It is the custom of folks of Rewa to offer Beatle leaves and nuts to the visiting folks. This symbolic gesture is the characteristic point of the Rewa folks. Not only this, earlier folks here used to give beatle leaves and nuts while inviting other folks on some auspicious occasions. It thus played an important part of the lives of average folks here.

Slowly this art flourished and now-a-days dozens of the artisans creates magnificent, rare products from the nuts and earn their livelihood. One peek into the nut arts will take your breath away. Imagine the bangles full size as woman accessories is made up of the number of tiny nuts. One nut is small enough even for the ring!! Then swans or pair of birds or Taj Mahal of 6”x6” or 12”x12” square inches is a visual treat. A whole range of the decorative items like Lamp, house, Lord Ganesha, Telephone stand etc. As we can see these items serve the dual purpose; decoration and utility. There are some innovative items like bangle holder and lamp. One item with triple benefits viz decoration, utility and not to forget the rare skill displayed right in front of your eyes to appreciate and amuse. These lamps from a casual look can be confused for grapes hanging from the wood.!!

Each item like Taj Mahal are so detail oriented that given the space even great Shah Jehan can be visible.!!! This is true for all the items. Amazingly all with those seemingly not so catchy NUTS.

The artisans earlier used to do all the cutting, polishing, smoothening from the hand. But now as the demand grows they have started using the conveyor belt. Products are normally made as per the order and they do not stock it in their homes. The skill is very fine and as slices of nuts are not very hard, it takes more than experience and skill, the attitude, to design any item. Although the education has no replacement, the tradition and culture of such arts needs more protection than anticipated. The son of Yogesh Kunder is no longer interested in such design. “My all friends are studying in good school and none of them do this work as they consider this as inferior” was the curt reply when the member of Folksmarket had asked about his nonchalant attitude about this art whom his great great grandfather had started.

Yogesh and like him all the artisans who have grown up seeing these arts and adopted this as their family tradition are still folks with pride in their eyes. “As long as I am alive, I will not do anything but crafting designs from the nut”, said one artisan who sends his son to the convent school.

Once again the Folksmarket team found itself on the cross road of thoughts. What is good for the son of Yogesh? Is it going to a convent school where he will supposedly be prepared to join some white collar jobs or learning this rare arts which had sustained his generations for so long and given an identity? Is there a middle way?

Well the answer is hard to find. But for the team Folks M, it is a milestone which enabled us to appreciate the skills of the folks and give a reason to continue our Celebration of Folks!!

Marble-ous World, Indian Marble Handicraft items at Folksmarket.com

Marble is the precious metamorphic stone. Brilliance lies in its texture, its color and above all, if I may say so, its rarity. We might see various stones, red, black etc but finding marble is as rare as finding diamond or say, opium. For folks like us, seeing marble is a beautiful experience as we have never been in the company of this stone. Now think of the place wheremarble is Everywhere, literally!! The mountains made up of the marble, the field of the marble, sitting slabs made of the marbles and what more, even the speed breaker is made of the marble!!...Looks like some fairy tale, no?

Even better, to highlight the glory of such beautiful place is the holy river Narmada. The pious river Narmada is the only river flowing from East to west, covering 750kms, to meet Arabian Sea in the state of Gujrat. 

Bhedaghat, in Jabalpur is one such place. 

The splashing water of river Narmada seems to transfer all its beauty in its bank here. Like the rift valley the Narmada flows between the slabs of the mountain. The water so clear that the river bed is easily visible if one tries to see it closely or dive in. It’s a hub spot for thousands of tourist who are mesmerized by the serene marvel of Bhedaghat. The team of Folksmarket was simply awestruck as soon as we reach in the company of the marble and of those folks who play with these stones and creates marble decorative and useful items again and again.

Yes we are coming to these artisans, these folks who still celebrate their skills, their creations and often instead of idol worshipping (which they are deft enough to create as and when they feel like!!!) they worship the nature. This is the tradition. 

We were amazed when we saw hundreds of the beautiful items sculpted by these artisans.

Marble glasses, marble lamps, marble chess, marble bangles, marble swans, etc. Above all the most amazing was the marble telephone!!. Marble working telephone!! Just imagine how beautiful a glittering marble telephone will look in the drawing room irrespective of the theme of the drawing rooms.

List is endless and every item that we have collected is tempting. Even something as monotonous as small glass for drinks is alluring without bounds. Just check more in our website www.folksmarket.com

Another hallmark of this place is the marble painting. No, no, we are not talking about the rock painting. Almost all the paintings that you will see there are the same painting of Bhedaghat. The river Narmada with all its glory is flowing from the rift valley made of marble. Folks have imagined different times for this theme. Sunrise, sunsets, full moon, half moon, you name it and they have visualized and painted them all. Anyone will at once recognize these paintings as from this place. In a way these are signaturepaintings of Bhedaghat. You may see all these paintings exclusively in www.folksmarket.com

Visiting those sites where these artisans and folks work looks like someone is working with lime stone. The marbles are so whitey!!  These folks are working since ages and the same skill is passing on from generation to generation. We must preserve this. After all this is the motto of the company. The sculptors with chisel and hammer break all the stone into its desired length after measuring its softness. Most of the time its their age old wisdom and experience of creations that measures the softness and hardness of the stone.  Covering their head and nose these artisans often laments about the termination of the marble mining because of which procuring the stones is getting difficult day by day. Innocently these folks have asked us to highlight this point.

One may ponder over whether to support mining that is creating havoc on the environment or not. Not supporting the mining is taking a toll over these poor folks. We may logic it out for the mass benefit. But what about the preservation of the age old tradition? Unfortunately these folks have to pay the price of that mistakes which they have never committed. 

These artisans never pollute the water and never mine the mountains, rather than just take some pieces from here and there which never affects the balance of nature. 

Anyway, there are still some eye opening and breathtaking moments for us that has given our folks the joy. Time to relish our beautiful experience and enjoying the wonderful creations of these folks.

See ya