Kanchipuram Sarees, Kanjivaram Sarees,...something else!!

As on today the price of the gold traded in New Delhi Rs 27740 per 10 grams and Silver as Rs 56,200. Price is going northward gradually but surely. The price of gold is giving nightmares to traditional Kanchipuram silk saree weavers. They either have to reduce the use of gold and silver in making zari, the decorative lace that define sarees made here in the temple town of Tamil Nadu or discontinue the prefixing of the name Kanchipuram with these sarees. Tough choice indeed!

While interacting with one society, its been informed that silk sarees are churns out through 20,000 looms with 2-3 weavers working on each of them. A saree could take 8-15 days to produce, depending on its complexity and design and colour.

Zari, the decorative lace, as per the standard should be a mix of silver and gold in the ratio of 57% and 0.6% silver and gold respectively to get the identity of Kanchipuram. This identity of Kanchipuram Silk Sarees have been protected by the Geographical  Indication label since 2005. It certifies as well as confirms that these standards are adhered. Without these standards silk sarees woven in Kanchipuram can not be termed as Kanchipuram.!!

Last year this standard hit these silk weavers badly as the price of the gold and silver skyrocketed. To make 240 gm of zari, the cost has raised from Rs 6,000 in 2010 to Rs 15,000 in 2011-12, 2.5 times jump!!

However there is some breather by the state govt. As per the new standard laid by the govt of Tamil Nadu, the silver content of 40% and gold as 0.5% is permissible and are entitled to sell their sareee as original Kanchipuram Silk. Less use of these lustrous metals has been welcomed by these weavers. They don’t need to fear  of losing the exalted Kanchipuram identity.

  "The notification is expected anytime soon," says Sanjai Gandhi, president of Intellectual Property Rights Attorney Association, who has been driving Geographical Indication use by the temple town's weavers.

The reasoning behind Geographical Indications in general is that a certain quality can be associated with products made from specific geographies. In India, prominent products bagging this brand right include Darjeeling Tea, Kashmir Pashmina and Tirupati Laddoo.

The geographical identity has also come under criticism. The futility of Geographical Indication is being heard among Kanchipuram’s weavers. Societies eligible to use are at best lukewarm to the idea of Geographical Identity. The main reason behind this is the unawareness of geographical tag so much that while buying a saree they don’t look for the Geographical tag. This results in the  passage of many sarees from other towns and cities of Tamil Nadu. A variety of sarees are available in the open market, traded under the names of 'Kanjivaram Silk Sarees, Conjeevaram Silk, Kanchi Silk Sarees,' by giving the impression of original Kanchipuram Silk Sarees to the consumers." 

For us, Folksmarket.com, we have always strived to protect rich tradition and culture of our weavers and crafters. Geographical identity is one important element that can protect these traditional silk weavers from Kanchipuram.