77S7WS93BDQM The fabric made from the Protein fibre can be classified
into two:
- Keratin (hair/fur) fibres and
- Secreted (insects) fibres
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It is the Secreted fibres that we are dealing with today.
The Keratin fibre is already posted with the title Amazing fibres from animals.
One single filament of the
silk is the outcome of several process and hardship. Various steps involved
right from harvesting the mulberry plants to domestication of the Bombyx Mori
to reeling.
During the caterpillar stage the silkworm secretes a liquid
protein from two large glands to wrap itself. This liquid protein hardens with
the exposure in air. This resulting filament is bonded by new excretion of the
liquid protein Sericin which forms a solid sheath or cocoon. Normally the moth
breaks this cocoon to come out. But in sericulture the cocoon are boiled much
before the moth can come out. The boiling loosen the Sericin and then the
resultant filament is reeled into a reeling machine or charka.
The silk
industry is very specialized one. The entire process of silk reeling (that
includes batching, cooking, drying, mounting, segregating etc) can not be done
by the machine alone as lot of discretionary human intervention is required at
all stages.
The different varieties of the silk can be obtained
depending upon its feeding, reeling process, cocoon variety and human
intervention. In general, the silk fibre/fabric can be categorized into
following types:
It is one of the most widely available commercial silk
produced from Bombyx Mori variety of the silk that is fed mulberry leaves and
only mulberry leaves.
Muga Silk worm Antheraea assamensis is native to Assam, India. The larvae of
this moth feed on Som and Sualu leaves. Owing to its low porosity it can not be
dyed or bleached easily and hence its golden color is retained. The silk has a
glossy texture and very durable to use. It is said that if cared properly the silk
can outlive its owner!
Eri cocoon are open mouthed with discontinuous filament that
makes them suitable only for spinning. The silk worm feed on Caster oil plant.
As the moth come out of the cocoon and then the baves of cocoon collected for
further processing, this silk is also known as Ahimsa Silk or Non-violent Silk.
Like Muga, they are also reared in Assam. 90% of the Eri comes from Assam,
India
When silk fabric woven with satin weave (where the warp
cross over 3 or more weft threads). The satin finish give it a floating
appearance. It drapes well and the silk gives it a luster and rich look. This
is also a lightweight fabric. It makes stunning outfit. These days the
synthetic fibres are also used for different purpose. However original French Charmeuse
can’t be thought of without SILK!
Tassar cocoons have a compact structure different from the
mulberry cocoon. They are single shelled and oval in shape. They are
non-mulberry silk and do not produced from Bombyx Mori and as such not fed by
mulberry leaves. They breed on local tress like Sal, Arjun, Saja . The Tassar
silk worm also feed on any tree they live on. A high quality of Tassar will
have a count of approximate 42-60 denier. They are also referred, sometimes, Wild Silk
as they are not domesticated with mulberry leaves.
There is a natural adhesive present in the silk filament
which is degummed. If the silk is not degummed, it is called as Raw Silk.
The silkworm Antheraea mulitt , live on oak leaves and fed on oak leaves.
The oak leaves produce an irregular and coarse filament that is hard to bleach
and dye. Wild silk is less lustrous than cultivated silk as about 11% sericin
is removed in the degumming process. Standard wild silk filament is made from 8
cocoon and the count is 32-34 denier.
Floss Silk
Floss silk is processed from pierced, end-missing, and
double cocoons. Floss silk is beneficial as paddy against cold weather and as a
basis for hand spun yarns. The procedure to create floss silk involves
degumming, opening-up and finishing
There are many waste materials eliminated during
manufacturing of good quality silk. These wastes have commercial value. During
rearing, pierced cocoon and double cocoon are created. Double cocoons are
processed to make Dupion silk.
Silk reeling generates brushing waste, end missing cocoons
and pupae. The rejected cocoons are re-processed to make Spun Silk. The count
system of Spun Silk is same as Cotton with the slight difference for plied
yarns. While 2/120’s cotton means effectively a cotton staple of count 60’s,
the Spun Silk are generally represented as 60’s/2 that means the resultant
count is now 60’s made from two ply filament of 120’s each.
Noil and Gheecha are silk waste while brushing during the
reeling process. They are re-processed and used for less expensive silk fabric.
They have lower luster but still they are at par with 80’s cotton.
Organza
An informative post was posted few days back about this. Follow the following link: http://folksmarket.blogspot.in/2012/06/types-of-indian-fabric-ii.html
Chiffon
An informative post was posted few days back about this. Follow the following link: http://folksmarket.blogspot.in/2012/06/types-of-indian-fabric-ii.html
Satin
An informative post was posted few days back about this. Follow the following link: http://folksmarket.blogspot.in/2012/06/types-of-indian-fabric-ii.html
Taffeta Silk
An informative post was posted few days back about this. Follow the following link: http://folksmarket.blogspot.in/2012/06/types-of-indian-fabric-ii.html
