June 26, 2012

Rich Indian handloom Silk Fabric collection: Folksmarket.com

77S7WS93BDQM  The fabric made from the Protein fibre can be classified into two:
      - Keratin (hair/fur) fibres and
      - Secreted (insects) fibres

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It is the Secreted fibres that we are dealing with today. The Keratin fibre is already posted with the title Amazing fibres from animals.

The silk fibres are produced from various types of ectodermal glands in the mites, spiders and other insects. The silk for commercial purpose is obtained from the larvae of special kind of caterpillar Bombyx Mori. The silk worm either fed with Mulberry leaves in case of domestication or worm feeds Natural Oak wood Sal leaves etc

One single filament of the silk is the outcome of several process and hardship. Various steps involved right from harvesting the mulberry plants to domestication of the Bombyx Mori to reeling.

During the caterpillar stage the silkworm secretes a liquid protein from two large glands to wrap itself. This liquid protein hardens with the exposure in air. This resulting filament is bonded by new excretion of the liquid protein Sericin which forms a solid sheath or cocoon. Normally the moth breaks this cocoon to come out. But in sericulture the cocoon are boiled much before the moth can come out. The boiling loosen the Sericin and then the resultant filament is reeled into a reeling machine or charka. 

The silk industry is very specialized one. The entire process of silk reeling (that includes batching, cooking, drying, mounting, segregating etc) can not be done by the machine alone as lot of discretionary human intervention is required at all stages.

The different varieties of the silk can be obtained depending upon its feeding, reeling process, cocoon variety and human intervention. In general, the silk fibre/fabric can be categorized into following types:


It is one of the most widely available commercial silk produced from Bombyx Mori variety of the silk that is fed mulberry leaves and only mulberry leaves.


Muga Silk worm Antheraea assamensis is native to Assam, India. The larvae of this moth feed on Som and Sualu leaves. Owing to its low porosity it can not be dyed or bleached easily and hence its golden color is retained. The silk has a glossy texture and very durable to use. It is said that if cared properly the silk can outlive its owner!


Eri cocoon are open mouthed with discontinuous filament that makes them suitable only for spinning. The silk worm feed on Caster oil plant. As the moth come out of the cocoon and then the baves of cocoon collected for further processing, this silk is also known as Ahimsa Silk or Non-violent Silk. Like Muga, they are also reared in Assam. 90% of the Eri comes from Assam, India


When silk fabric woven with satin weave (where the warp cross over 3 or more weft threads). The satin finish give it a floating appearance. It drapes well and the silk gives it a luster and rich look. This is also a lightweight fabric. It makes stunning outfit. These days the synthetic fibres are also used for different purpose. However original French Charmeuse can’t be thought of without SILK!


Tassar cocoons have a compact structure different from the mulberry cocoon. They are single shelled and oval in shape. They are non-mulberry silk and do not produced from Bombyx Mori and as such not fed by mulberry leaves. They breed on local tress like Sal, Arjun, Saja . The Tassar silk worm also feed on any tree they live on. A high quality of Tassar will have a count of approximate 42-60 denier.  They are also referred, sometimes, Wild Silk as they are not domesticated with mulberry leaves. 


There is a natural adhesive present in the silk filament which is degummed. If the silk is not degummed, it is called as Raw Silk.


The silkworm Antheraea mulitt , live on oak leaves and fed on oak leaves. The oak leaves produce an irregular and coarse filament that is hard to bleach and dye. Wild silk is less lustrous than cultivated silk as about 11% sericin is removed in the degumming process. Standard wild silk filament is made from 8 cocoon and the count is 32-34 denier.

Floss Silk

Floss silk is processed from pierced, end-missing, and double cocoons. Floss silk is beneficial as paddy against cold weather and as a basis for hand spun yarns. The procedure to create floss silk involves degumming, opening-up and finishing


There are many waste materials eliminated during manufacturing of good quality silk. These wastes have commercial value. During rearing, pierced cocoon and double cocoon are created. Double cocoons are processed to make Dupion silk.


Silk reeling generates brushing waste, end missing cocoons and pupae. The rejected cocoons are re-processed to make Spun Silk. The count system of Spun Silk is same as Cotton with the slight difference for plied yarns. While 2/120’s cotton means effectively a cotton staple of count 60’s, the Spun Silk are generally represented as 60’s/2 that means the resultant count is now 60’s made from two ply filament of 120’s each. 


Noil and Gheecha are silk waste while brushing during the reeling process. They are re-processed and used for less expensive silk fabric. They have lower luster but still they are at par with 80’s cotton. 

Organza

An informative post was posted few days back about this. Follow the following link: http://folksmarket.blogspot.in/2012/06/types-of-indian-fabric-ii.html


Chiffon

An informative post was posted few days back about this. Follow the following link: http://folksmarket.blogspot.in/2012/06/types-of-indian-fabric-ii.html


Satin

An informative post was posted few days back about this. Follow the following link: http://folksmarket.blogspot.in/2012/06/types-of-indian-fabric-ii.html


Taffeta Silk

An informative post was posted few days back about this. Follow the following link: http://folksmarket.blogspot.in/2012/06/types-of-indian-fabric-ii.html

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