June 23, 2012

Indian Handloom Silk Fabric: Folksmarket.com

Good Eve folks! Today we would like to touch the silk fabric briefly. Silk often rhyme with elegance, softness and handloom fabric. Lets see how it is evolved and a cursory look at its properties.
  
The Chinese legend says that silk was first reeled by the Empress Hsi Ling She around 2700 BC. Archaeological evidence suggests that silk is used since 5000 BC, that is more than 7000 years from now!


Handloom Silk Fabric by Folksmarket.com
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Empress Hsi Ling She was sipping tea under the mulberry tree when she discovered the silk filaments from the cocoon. So fascinated was she that she started reeling silk all alone. She learnt to spin the silk and made some luxurious fabric out of it.


Besides China, traces of silk has also been traced in Indus Valley Civilization of India, Egyptian mummies, Middle East, Europe and North Africa. The discovery at Harappa and Chanhu-daro suggest that ancient people knew Sericulture (art of silk cultivation), employing wild silk threads from local silk worms. So much was the popularity of the silk that major trade route from Europe to Asia is known as Silk Route


Handloom Silk Fabric by Folksmarket.com
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Silk is a natural protein fibre coming from the silk worm (Bombyx Mori) who fed on mulberry leaves. The silk fibre has a triangular prism like structure that reflects light into various angles which results into the shimmering effect of the silk fabric.


Though silk is produced by various insects, it is only the silk worm that has been utilized so far by the textile industry. Though research is on way for other insects.


Handloom Silk Fabric by Folksmarket.com
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Silk are produced normally by two kind of worms. One that feeds on mulberry silk and other that do not feeds on mulberry silk. The first variety is known as Mulberry Silk and the other known as Wild Silk. Before the domestication and cultivation of mulberry silk worms, the wild silk was widely used. The silk produced from the wild silk is of lesser grade for variety of reasons. Important among them are quality of the silk fibre and other is the short filament as generally the worm tears the filament and comes out.

The mulberry leaf is fed to the caterpillar and after 35 days of continuing feeding, the silk worm spins a cocoon of silk. The length of the silk filament from a single cocoon could be as long as a mile (1.6 kms)!

The cocoon are boiled and filament is identified which then is reeled into silk threads.

Handloom Silk Fabric by Folksmarket.com
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The length of the silk filament is very important in manufacturing a high class fabric. Generally the more the length of the filament is, the higher is the quality. Short fibres are also spun to create low quality threads.

Silk is a strong fibre but it deteriorates with time and become brittle. The number of process involved, high end skill required and feeding expensive mulberry leaves make the silk fibre a costly but worthwhile fabric.

Handloom Silk Fabric by Folksmarket.com
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Today silk is used in virtually all the aspect of the textile industry. Be it apparels, fashion, curtains, wedding gowns, other home furnishing items, silk finds it use everywhere. The expensive fabric like Georgette, Chiffon, Velvet, Satin, all use silk as their primary raw material. The silk fabric is prized agricultural commodity, although its contribution in global textile industry is around 1%. 


Handloom Silk Fabric by Folksmarket.com
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India is 2nd largest producer of silk. In India, the best of the silk fibre are obtained from Bangalore, Assam, Murshidabad, Varanasi, Bhagalpur etc. The Bhagalpur earlier was called as Silk City but it is now replaced by Bhoodhan Pochampally (Andhra Pradesh). Assam produce three varieties of the silk: Eri, Muga and Mulberry. Of these three, Eri and Muga are native to Assam and North East of India. Muga is also known as Gold Silk as the natural muga silk will be golden in color.

The southern India has the tradition of wearing sarees made of silk and as such we see some heavily worked upon sarees like Kanchipuram, Dharmavaram, Pochampally, Mysore silk sarees etc.

Handloom Silk Fabric by Folksmarket.com
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Handloom Silk Fabric by Folksmarket.com
www.folksmarket.com


Some of the important characteristic of Silk Fibres and Fabric
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  • Silk filament is a continuous thread of 500-1500 mtrs in length 

  • It is stronger than cotton and linen

  • Prolong exposure of sunlight can turn white silk into yellow and can also weaken the fibre

  • It absorbs moisture easily making it valuable fabric for summer

  • It retains heat during winter season, making it all weather fabric

  • It is resilient and elastic

  • Dries quickly

  • Expensive due to process and raw material (mulberry leaves)
This was a short discussion on silk fabric. For more information on silk and other handloom fabric, please keep visiting this blog and our website www.folksmarket.com. 

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